Wearable Skincare

It’s unusual for a fashion brand to feature an Address Book section on its website to recommend a holistic healthcare clinic, a dermatologist or an osteopath. But for Sylva’s founder Tallulah Harlech it makes complete sense.

‘I became this person that a lot of people came to because they understood that I’d tried all these different things with my skin,’ she tells LS:N Global. ‘Still, once a week at least I get someone who says: ‘Oh, my friend has this thing’, or ‘my friend’s cousin’, or ‘my friend’s husband’ or whatever. ‘Do you have a recommendation for them?’’

Harlech was diagnosed with psoriasis, the chronic autoimmune skin condition, when she was just nine years old and has since seen countless doctors, healthcare professionals and tried alternative therapies. Steroid creams, immunosuppressant injections and even veganism played a crucial role in toning down her condition.

'I wanted to heal completely, and so in 2019, I got off the medication to see whether I had done enough therapy.'

'I wondered: have I got my lifestyle and wellness in a place where I don’t need to be on an immunosuppressant injection?’ she says. ‘No. My skin came back with a vengeance. So I did 2019 to 2022 – across those Covid years – completely experiencing my skin with no medication. And that’s really where Sylva was born.’

It’s during those years that she started wearing Pangaia’s 100% organic cotton tracksuits that were good enough for her skin condition. But as the fashion industry and its fashion weeks returned post-pandemic, the stylist and consultant started thinking about how to turn the quality and protective abilities of Pangaia’s ensembles into fashion-forward apparel.

‘I love the femininity of my body, the shapes, the curves, they’re there, and they weren’t being captured in an oversized – albeit organic – cotton tracksuit. So I started thinking: I wish I could make this kind of Yohji Yamamoto–esque, late-1980s, minimalist, second-skin basics. And I started hunting, looking, seeing – where is this happening?’

Finding the right skin-loving material

At the time, Harlech saw the rise of soft shapewear specialist Skims and the success of brands using organic cotton and natural materials like Hanro, Skin or James Perse. But all of these specialised in lingerie, basics and loungewear, which, to her, signalled an opportunity in the premium market for apparel made with high-quality materials and designed for women on the go who can jump on public transport and go to a Chanel show on the same day.

Her journey as a founder started when she roamed the Future Fabrics Expo in London in search of fabrics that would protect her skin condition. ‘I needed to know there’s more than just organic cotton and bamboo. I needed to know if there was anything with dermatological or scientific backing,’ she says.

‘I went in and started finding fabrics that had capabilities I had no idea existed,’ she recalls. ‘I thought if something was stretchy, it had to be full of Lycra. But actually, there are techniques through yarn and weave manipulation, especially with wood cellulose, that can create stretch without synthetics.’

Harlech came across Pyratex, an interlock made with Tencel – a cellulosic fibre obtained from wood pulp using recyclable solvents – and a seaweed-based fibre. Produced in Austria and knitted in Portugal, the material is anti-bacterial, anti-irritation, eliminates free radicals – reactive oxygen species that can interact and damage the skin – and has skincare properties. Seaweed naturally contains amino acids, vitamins and minerals that are beneficial for the skin.

After reaching out to Lenzing, the fibre innovator behind Tencel and Pyratex, Harlech dived into science-backed studies of Tencel fibres. ‘They detailed how dermatologists found them to be far more beneficial for the skin than organic cotton and definitely better than anything polyester or synthetic.’

Healing through fabric

Following the fabric sourcing, Sylva’s founder used her extensive network to find the right partners, including an ethical manufacturer in Turkey, and designers and pattern-makers who could turn her vision into reality.

Drop one was launched in October 2024 with three items: a top, a pair of leggings and a dress retailing between £195 ($252, €233) and £390 ($505, €466). Items are made from Pyratex SeaCell 15, a blend of 65% Tencel, 28% SeaCell and 7% elastane, all knitted in Portugal.

One of her first clients expressed how surprised they were with the weight of the garments. ‘I wanted pieces you can actually feel when you hold them… There’s also a durability that comes with that weight. It allows for more shaping to happen because the fabric is just denser,’ explains Sylva’s founder. She hints that drop two will perhaps feature a lightweight version of these pieces.

Looking ahead, Harlech envisages Sylva entering bricks-and-mortar stores like Selfridges and Dover Street Market, and continuing its journey online via the US luxury retailer Moda Operandi.

The stylist also believes this category will expand, as beauty and cosmetics don’t just stop at a cream. ‘If people already think so much about their skin barrier – the creams, the serums, the this and the that – and we’re becoming more and more skincare-orientated, the question is: where does that stop? Because your skin doesn’t end at your face. What about the rest of you?’

She mentions how, if consumers are so concerned about drinking from a plastic water bottle because of microplastics, why are they okay with wearing synthetics? ‘Your skin is your largest organ. Your pores are constantly opening and closing. And there’s the very real potential for transdermal absorption, what you put on your skin gets into your body.’